The Saga of One: March 2011

    I returned from Morocco two weeks ago and am just now writing it all down. I felt I needed time to reflect and decide how to express the countless experiences I had during my ten day mini tour of the country. So, I've decided to stay away from the mundane day-to-day travel blog details and instead focus on the events which left the biggest impression... that's the point, right? But, if you are interested in some of the more quotidian events you're in luck! My friends and I created a sort of video-blog while we are exploring. You can find the videos at http://www.youtube.com/user/suburbankoolaid#p/u and they will all be labeled 'Maroc video diary'. I'm sure you can figure it out. Go. Fight. View some Moroccan story telling!

    This adventure is one I'm sure I'll remember for quite some time. Not because we did anything extreme or had near death experiences but mostly because it was a great insight into an entirely different culture and way of life. I had never been to a Muslim country before nor Africa. The most exotic place I'd been was Greece and blond tourists are a dime a dozen on those islands. Before we left I was feeling nervous about having to use my French in a practical way. Yes, I speak French everyday and I've lived here for six months but I was still a little apprehensive.

    My concern was swiftly washed away out second day. We were on the train from Casablanca to Marrakesh and settled into a compartment with a mother and her two daughters which were our age. Soon after an 82 year old enters and settles between Richard and on of the daughters. Some time passes where the old man and the family converse in a unique mixture of Arabic and French and Richard and I have no idea what they are talking about. But, then they are searching for a word and one of us knew the answer (in French obviously). So, we shared the knowledge and spent the next two plus hours chatting away while we passed though the Moroccan countryside. The man shared stories of his youth, family and life's ups and downs while staring me intensely in the eyes. It was fabulous but also like the longest oral pop quiz I've ever had the chance to experience. I was so grateful to have had such an experience (not just the pop quiz stare down)! The girls invited us to stay at their house in Fez if we were able to make it north and gave us their emails so we could find them on Facebook (the true connector of cultures). The three hours we spent with our compartment compatriots gave new life to the reason I love languages. Without French I would have never been able to communicate on a real level with these strangers. For me, that's the point of traveling. Not to see the sighs but to discover and experience the culture. A few other times I was complimented on my French while shopping, bartering or taking a tour of the tanneries. It was really encouraging to hear people saying that my accent was good etc... because its easy to feel like you are not improving when you have no summative assessments.

    Also, I have never been anywhere with a more hospitable culture. The Moroccan people are welcoming and encouraging and interested in you and that was a wonderful surprise. Anytime we arrived at a new place or even just walking through the market people would strike up conversations. Where are you from? Is this your first time in Morocco? What do you think? You speak French? Would you like some tea? On one occasion Richard and I were wondering around Essaouria and were stopped by a herb/tea vendor. I said, no thank you, we don't need anything. He replied with, everything is free... to smell. So, as he starts rubbing all sorts of soap-like perfumes on my wrists we start talking. The usual questions come up. He is excited to practice his English and even more excited that we speak French. He invites us for tea in his little shop and sends an ancient old man to fetch the boiling water after he asks Richard if he is my husband and then offers to buy me for an unspecified number of camels. So, we drink tea and people watch a have a casual conversation about Morocco and Essaouria. Once we are finished he doesn't try to make us buy anything (which is very surprising) and thanks us for having tea with him. It is encounters like these which sperate Morocco and what I imagine most of Africa and Asia from the 'Western World'. Morocco is so close to France that you can take a boat to the northern coast. You'd think that the exchange of cultures would be greater. There are still many signs that Morocco was once a French colony such as there is always an 'apéro' when drinks are served. As well as everyone using the formal vous with strangers and guests. But, the Moroccans say 'you're welcome' which is something I rarely hear in France.

    All said and done I am overwhelmingly pleased that I was able to experience Morocco the way I did. By eating where the people eat and staying in the hearts of the medinas we were able to see the real deal instead of the touristic postcard version.

Here are some photos for the road: